Empty clothes rail

Empty clothes rail

Thursday 5 April 2012

South East Asia: Melaka

[post by Ana]

We took an early morning bus from Singapore heading north, towards peninsular Malaysia, to Melaka. It is now the 16th January.
On leaving the bus, first thing we noticed – hard not to – was just how hot it was. From humid Singapore to dry heat Melaka, you start to get the picture. We choose to continue via this small but popular quiet town as a gentle introduction to this new culture. We booked for two nights at the Jonker Boutique hotel, very centrally in the heart of historic old town. And it proved enough to have a good look around, gather strength and move on.

Main street

View from the Fort A Famosa
Melaka is best known for its UNESCO World Heritage status. In this small town, the Portuguese, Dutch, English and Japanese managed to leave an imprint. One after the other, they came, they ruled and changed all that the others had done before, so you get these interesting architectural structures that were either modified and abandoned or modified and modified again to suit the rulers taste.
Christ Church, Dutch heritage
Fort A Famosa, Portuguese heritage
 Traditional houses

When it comes to the people, religion and food, you also benefit from the variety and diversity. Only in this way I can explain, that in one of the restaurants where we ate we found that the owner was a proud member of the Boy's Brigade in Malaysia. I don't know how we stumbled upon this information, but I do recall Col mentioning that his dad, Malcolm was once a member. This triggered a very emotional response from the owner who then led us to the back of the restaurant where he emotionally shared with us the mementos of the team and the dream that unites them of one day visiting Scotland.




I will add, that this was one of our favourite venues for eating, the Calanthe Art Cafe. I was really happy when I noticed in their menu one of my favourites Portuguese deserts Pudim serradura. He did a variation of it, and I'm proud to say a really good one. We conversed with excitement and exchanged recipe tips.

Calanthe Art Cafe

Melaka is good to explore by walking. We were accosted by Tuktuk drivers trying to sell us a tour around town, which they said it would take one hour, but we couldn't see how they would manage to make it last that long. 

Tuktuk

The historic heart of town is quite magical and we spent a day walking around the narrow one-way lanes and visiting the “colonial-style shophouses built by the Dutch and British. My favourite promenade was the Jonker Walk, where you're spoilt for choice on shopping. We loved the creativity that the Asians bring to the experience, the T-shirts, the bags, the shoes, all tailored for you. Had it not been for Col's 'Scottish' restraint I would've probably splurged on our first stop. 

An artist's gallery
River walk
 Archways
 How many temples can you fit in one street? So many, so beautiful, so big, each contributing to a color-full experience of life. I suppose you only have to consider the myriad of cultures here, Malay Muslims, Chinese Taoists and Buddhists, Indian Hindus, a large number of indigenous people, plus an assortment of Peranakans, Eurasians and other races and religions. All calling themselves Malaysian. 

Temple door

Mosque
The streets were covered in red. It's a theme you will see on our travels in South East Asia, the Dragon, Chinese lanterns, the burning of fake money, incense, red fabric. We feel that this mystical allure added a very special tone to this part of the journey. In Western culture, we don't feel this energy, this build-up in the coming of the New Year and the first 15 days that succeed it. Here it's as involving as it puzzling. I would be curious to find out how it would feel to be here at different times of the year. 

 

Col checked and there was a mention of this house that does the best curry ever, Pak Putra Tandoori & Nan Restaurant - nr. 1 in Trip Advisor - and also there's the Zhen He Tea House that is a must do. It's beyond reason, Col made me walk to the ends of the earth under the oppressing heat until we could find this place (the curry house). It turns out it wasn't that far and I've learned not to come between my man and his curry.

Pak Putra Tandoori & Nan Restaurant

Do you know Mister Potato Boleh? Well you do now in Melaka, occupying a big billboard in the centre of the square we had the pleasure to become acquainted with Mr. Potato Boleh potato chips, courtesy of Manchester United.

 
We liked Melaka, it was a good in-between stop and helped us get acquainted with the currency and Malay language. It is a tourist destination but it holds its charm, probably more of a pleasant shopping destination.
I will leave you with some of the best moments, courtesy of Col's exploratory/ Indiana Jones streak. And I'm thankful, because of his adventurous spirit we've been rewarded with interesting experiences. Ones that we would not have, had we taken my approach to avoid the blazing sun at all hours of the day.

at the Fort A Famosa
Dragon made out of coins, Melaka Shopping Centre
 An alley covered in graffiti
Pigeons taking over, somewhere
Bike graveyard
A shared Dutch and English graveyard

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